Chef Kurt Micallef reflects on how traditional dishes evoke nostalgic memories of his mother’s cooking

Kurt Micallef is the former Head Chef at Michelin-starred Fernandõ Gastrotheque, where his delicious fusion dishes combine Mediterranean and Asian influences. Kurt’s culinary experience stems from years of hands-on involvement within Maltese kitchens; some of which are renowned names within the local scene.

In the third of a seven-part series, first featured on Business Now magazine we explore the flavours, inspirations, and personal reflections that shape the island’s contemporary cuisine, straight from the source. Diving into the kitchens and minds of some of Malta’s most celebrated chefs, we learn about their favourite dishes and thoughts on the Maltese summer, offering a tantalising glimpse into the island’s gastronomic landscape.

Sharing his personal favourite dish at Fernandõ, Kurt points to a white prawn crêpe with fermented red pepper sauce, pickled cucumber and shrimp nage.

“For this dish, white shrimps are turned into a mousse and sandwiched in a red pepper crêpe. Two sauces adorn the plate – the first a rich chicken and prawn jus seasoned with a fermented red pepper paste, white soy sauce and roasted garlic; and the second a classical shrimp nage which is seasoned with yuzu juice to give a fantastic floral acidity and balance the rich flavours in the dish. Cucumbers pickled in rice vinegar infused with kombu finish off and refresh the palate,” he says, explaining the complex arrangement of flavours.

Describing the dish as a very personal one as it illustrates his career path, Kurt adds, “it’s rooted in classical French cooking but with Japanese and Asian flavours combined – a rich but balanced dish with flavours of crustacean, heat, umami, and a lingering acidity. It shows skill, technique, and craft but then eats very comforting and heart-warming.”

Diverting his attention to Maltese cuisine, Kurt views local food like rabbit stew, brodu (broth), soppa tal-armla (widow’s soup), and minestra (vegetable soup) as staples in his household growing up. “It evokes nostalgic memories and reminds me of my mother’s cooking,” he smiles, admitting that while it doesn’t translate much into the food he cooks today per se, there are always food memories that go into certain dishes.

“Green olives and marjoram are traditionally used as condiments in a local fish stew or soup, which I have taken as flavour memories and paired with the current fish main course at the restaurant – a pesto of sorts is made from green olives that are pounded with marjoram, roasted garlic oil, colatura, and smoked soy sauce, which give a new dimension to the classical pairing,” he explains.

Finally, revealing his local food preferences in the hot months, the chef favours fresh and lighter foods in summer, basing his diet on fresh fruits and salads mostly, “although I think a quintessential food that is associated with summer has to be a Maltese ftira biz-żejt enjoyed by the sea.”

This interview was first carried in the 2024 edition of Business Now Magazine, the sister brand to BusinessNow.mt and produced by Content House Group.