‘Rabbit is one of the national dishes of Malta, so it’s important that we had it on the menu’ – Simon Rogan

Award-winning British chef and restaurateur Simon Rogan is one of the pioneers of the farm-to-fork movement in the UK and holds three Michelin stars for his Lake District restaurant, L’Enclume. His first Mediterranean restaurant, ION Harbour, is the only restaurant on the island to receive two Michelin stars. Oli Marlow, who first started working with Simon in 2012, serves as Executive Chef.

In the first of a seven-part series, first featured on Business Now magazine we explore the flavours, inspirations, and personal reflections that shape the island’s contemporary cuisine, straight from the source. Diving into the kitchens and minds of some of Malta’s most celebrated chefs, we learn about their favourite dishes and thoughts on the Maltese summer, offering a tantalising glimpse into the island’s gastronomic landscape.

Starting with Chefs Simon and Oli, their favourite dish from ION’s menu is inspired by a local classic: rabbit. “Rabbit is one of the national dishes of Malta, so it’s important that we had a rabbit dish on the menu,” explains Simon, although of course, the stuffed rabbit at ION is not presented in the way most Maltese are used to.

“The dish is stuffed with lemon thyme and oyster mushrooms, and then steamed and wrapped with Swiss chard from Renny’s farm, a hydroponic farm on the island which grows incredible quality seasonal herbs and vegetables. We then make a jubilee sweetcorn puree, and finish with a sauce made from the roasted bones and juices thickened with preserved lovage stems and pickled tapioca,” he says.

“I don’t get to cook with rabbit that often in the UK,” Oli reveals, adding “a lot of our guests in Malta are tourists and might not have tried rabbit before, so it’s great to give our diners new experiences and show them a little bit of the country.”

Sharing their thoughts on Maltese cuisine, Simon highlights the quality of local produce, affirming “our tasting menu includes dishes such as Siġġiewi strawberries and bee pollen cake, and marigold and milk ice-cream, which makes the most of the glut of strawberries on the island throughout May.” The menu also features nods to the classic dishes served at his restaurants across the world, he continues, “but using Maltese ingredients, such as ‘ION’ which is a replica of our signature caramelised miso dessert, which we serve with Maltese bambinella pear.”

“I love how seasonal Maltese cuisine is,” Oli adds. “Typically, in the UK, we would get crops like asparagus once a year, in spring. In Malta, however, we enjoy two harvests. The first is in February/March/April, when the weather is getting warmer after the so-called winter. It then gets a little too hot to grow until October/ November, when you almost get another spring.”

As for foods the chefs associate with Malta’s summer, Simon’s pick is a simple caprese salad. “Nothing beats it: mozzarella, tomato, and basil salad with Maltese olive oil, salt, and pepper. Eaten in the sun, by the sea, with a glass of wine and I’m very happy.” For Oli, it’s ice-cream and local beer, Cisk. “My favourite flavour of ice-cream is pistachio, but you can make a lovely strawberry ice-cream with some amazing locally grown strawberries. As for Cisk, no preparation is required!”

This interview was first carried in the 2024 edition of Business Now Magazine, the sister brand to BusinessNow.mt and produced by Content House Group