Maltese cuisine is humble and multicultural, says chef Jonathan Brincat

Award-winning and Michelin-starred chef Jonathan Brincat, also known as Noni, is the founder and co-owner of the Valletta restaurant with the same name. He has valuable experience in different roles at the kitchens of five-star luxury and gastronomic establishments in London, Australia and Asia.

In the fourth of a seven-part series, first featured on Business Now magazine we explore the flavours, inspirations, and personal reflections that shape the island’s contemporary cuisine, straight from the source. Diving into the kitchens and minds of some of Malta’s most celebrated chefs, we learn about their favourite dishes and thoughts on the Maltese summer, offering a tantalising glimpse into the island’s gastronomic landscape.

Stating his favourite dish on Noni’s menu, Jonathan names his Ta’ Guzman Farm organic potatoes, braised snails, spinach, fresh garlic, and black pepper, explaining, “it bursts with flavours that encapsulate what our island has to offer and revolves around my philosophy of taking humble ingredients and elevating them to their best capabilities, letting the ingredients shine through.”

The chef describes Maltese cuisine as humble, multicultural, seasonal, and ingredients-driven, which, in his view, is what one should expect from an island like Malta. “Our whole ethos revolves around Maltese cuisine and traditions, may it be something that was eaten 500 years ago or something much more recent which natives consider part of their heritage,” he maintains, describing how local food translates into his cooking today.

As for food he associates with Malta’s summer season, for Noni, it’s got to be a simple ftira biz-żejt. “A good, fresh ftira, smudged with ripe żenguli (elongated) tomatoes, olive oil, sea salt, a crack of black pepper, and a couple of basil leaves, with some table olives, ġbejna and raw onions on the side – not inside the ftira, so you can taste each ingredient!”

This interview was first carried in the 2024 edition of Business Now Magazine, the sister brand to BusinessNow.mt and produced by Content House Group.