Rising prices and shortage of lampuki fish leave Maltese restaurants struggling

Malta’s beloved lampuki season faces a tough year as restaurant owners express concern over reduced supply and rising costs, with some blaming external factors for the shortage.

Lampuki, or dorado in English, is a prized seasonal fish that graces Maltese waters from late August to December, and is a staple in local cuisine and culture. Historically depicted on the 10-cent coin, lampuki are central to traditional dishes and support both the fishing and restaurant industries. However, this year’s season has been marked by difficulties in availability and a surge in prices, creating challenges for fishermen and restaurant owners alike.

Unfavourable weather and rising costs

Speaking to BusinessNow.mt, a representative from Liska restaurant attributes the poor catch to unfavourable weather conditions. “This year, there weren’t many lampuki. I believe the weather is to blame,” he explained.

Johann, owner of Harbour by Johann, also voiced concerns about steep price increases, stating that lampuki are now sold at €16 to €17 per kilo—the highest in his four years of operation. “Lampuki used to be the only affordable fish, but not anymore. People accuse restaurant owners of overcharging, but everything is costly now,” he noted, alluding to the ongoing cost-of-living crisis.

Overfishing and supply disparities

One restaurant owner, who preferred to stay anonymous, suggested that foreign overfishing could be impacting Malta’s lampuki supply. “Some blame the Egyptians and Sicilians for overfishing, while others say it’s just a bad season. In Sicily, lampuki sell for as low as €3 per kilo, so clearly, they have plenty,” he remarked.

This restaurateur highlighted the difficulty Maltese fishermen face when travelling up to 200 km offshore only to return with meagre catches. He noted, “Ten years ago, Egyptians and Sicilians weren’t catching lampuki like they are now.”

Salvatore, owner of T’AnnaMari restaurant, echoed this sentiment, pointing out that Sicilian prices, as low as €4 per kilo, sharply contrast with the inflated costs in Malta. Such disparities have left local fishermen struggling to compete.

Environmental or market forces?

Retired fisherman Toni urged caution before attributing the shortage to specific factors. “From what I know, the Sicilians aren’t catching many lampuki either. But something must have happened,” he commented, suggesting high temperatures could be impacting the lampuki catch and emphasizing the need for comprehensive studies.

He dismissed speculation that Maltese fishermen are exporting lampuki, saying, “That only happens when there’s an excess.” Toni proposed that the fish may have migrated to cooler waters, a theory requiring further investigation.

A tradition at risk

This year’s lampuki season presents pressing challenges for Malta’s fishing industry and raises concerns about preserving traditional Maltese dishes. Whether driven by environmental changes, international overfishing, or market inflation, the shortage and escalating prices threaten the availability of this beloved fish at restaurants, and by extension, the culinary heritage it represents.